Aid climbing vs trad reddit.

Aid climbing vs trad reddit Ive been trad climbing for 6 years and never had to bail and leave gear, but ive never dome anything hatder than 5. . Free Climbing. About the sizing I am using a 37. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. Mountaineering medicine (comprehensive wilderness first aid) Climbing self rescue Mountain guides manual (advanced climbing skills) Advanced Rock Climbing, expert skills and techniques Accidents in north american climbing (any year) Rock climbing anchors - a comprehensive guide Training for the new alpinism (fitness, diet, etc) I haven't tried the new uprise pros, however having tried a number of shoes here's my two cents. Therefore, to prove something is free climbing it needs to be free of the hallmarks of aid - standing in ladders, pulling on bolts and pieces, hanging from hooks and tools, pulling on slings or gear above you ect. Free soloing is high consequence but should be 100% controlled. In trad climbing , a leader places various types of gear into natural features in the rock. Besides, I found it takes a special climbing partner to be patient enough to belay me doing that. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Trad gear (placing, bouncing, falling) absolutely damages sandstone, and other rock to a lesser degree, but it’s only a contention because those cracks are also used for hand/foot placement, whereas in sport climbing the holds aren’t affected by the protection. I've done both. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. High fall factor falls on a dynamic rope will exceed that. Responding to your question here. You can find mentors even by taking a trip alone to a popular trad area with your rack and good belaying skills or maybe on an online forum. If you’re sick of top roping, try sport climbing, when sport is boring you, learn “trad”. Trad Climbing vs. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. If you’re afraid gear won’t hold, practicing aid climbing is a good way to convince yourself it will and teach you what good vs bad placements are. 20 votes, 15 comments. Got a single rack of c4s . Sport Climbing. "Freerunning" uses no equipment or set courses. Reddit . I'm new to Trad climbing (have followed a ton, have a mentor, have taken a course with a guide) but I am having a really hard time identifying placements for cams that are trustworthy. Why bother with trad climbing if you don't like the problem solving part when you can just clip bolts and focus on the part that only matters to you? Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . Yes seriously. Just keep working it in the most comfortable way you can make it, and have fun! Learning to crack climb was crucial for me being able to go the places I wanted to with my climbing. Getting more and more into trad, and I've been doing so with a pair of La Sportiva Solutions, which admittedly, I adore climbing in, but hate having on for multiple pitches or entire days. 3. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts If no one has said it yet we are all totem crazy because they hold crazy well even if the lobes are not as equally cammed. If trad climbing isn’t enough, learn alpine, and or aid climbing. yosemite) then they are nice i think. And you can maybe even play around with the woman vs man versions regarding how stiff you like it. It comes down to the fact safety needs to be the priority. Probably because I was not actually falling on the piece. I want to get some Totems and possibly some aliens. Building an anchor with a We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. What is less clear is the matter of style - the details in which a climb was achieved. There’s also big wall climbing where you sleep on a vertical surface for multi day assaults of a giant rock face. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Trying to change it around for margins super early on is like doing the Ondra Two-Shoe for performance in your first 6 months of climbing. Class 6 was used to grade aid climbing, but it is more popular to use the "A" Scale for Aid. They are nice the adventure climbing sort of thing with some of the farther approaches due to the ankle support, but the caveat is weight. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. All things sport. Trad climbing often involves crack climbing , which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. reReddit: Top posts of December 17, 2020. Seems to cover nearly all bases. 3 z4s. Aid Climbing. I think you would be devastated if a friend got hurt or died. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s As a beginner and just speaking general trad, it's worth having a mixed rack. g. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Trad climbing IS more than just placing gear in the sense that it is also: understanding the micro and macro structure of the rock, reading for good rests and spots where it is comfortable to place, gear management, very often anchor building, very often crack climbing (jam it up!), and a whole bunch of knowledge about different knots and some other gear. Can anyone weigh in on what would be better? We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Business, Economics, and Finance. An aid grade of A5 on something would make it a badass aid climb that 'core aid climbers would take a crack at for the sake of the aid pitch. You can see it HERE. I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. Generally, trad climbing is less athletic as opposed to gym climb particularly, which is why there is the stereotype of the “trad dad” that’s out of shape and only climbs 5. i think that since there are far more sport climbers than trad those areas might have a broader appeal. Aid climbing stands in opposition to free climbing. Aid climbing and free climbing are both amazing forms of climbing. I love aid climbing myself. 8 through 1. read books on anchor setting … a LOT! (Thank you Bob Gaines and John Long!) spent a lot of time on flat ground placing pro and building belay anchors took a 4-day lead course (all trad / aid) mock-led climbs We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Aid climbing, it's all about the problem solving. But "free climbing" usually still requires nearly all the equipment the average person would associate with "climbing". Almost everyone who climbs el cap must aid at least some sections of the route. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts thanks. What is the benefit in risking fatal or catastrophic injury? Is this just an older climber thing? Totems flexible stems are also favorable for horizontal cracks (gunks) vs semi rigid stems such as c4s or friends. A week later we climbed Kingfisher in the Fisher Towers. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. 8 (their size #’s are weird, this is approximately equivalent to WC 0. I see more blown up small totems than anything else in that size range. I think it was worth it. Don't worry about these things until you need them. Limestone, but the rock wouldn't have failed if I had identified properly the weaknesses in the rock and the proper place to put the cam. We have 6 grades of climbing below VS for people who are starting out with trad climbing (all the way down to 5. There is no pre-placed gear, although you still usually climb routes others have "set. free), what weather is like, and I started trad climbing after I'd been sport-climbing 5. From what I've seen, maybe getting 2 of each of these is a good place to start, much of it is pretty cheap. But in the meantime, if you're looking for big-wall sport climbing, you should check out El Potrero Chico in Mexico. sticking a nut into a rock that you'll get back on the way down vs a permanent bolt) to help protect you from death. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. While free climbing uses only the natural rock as holds to help get your farther up the rock, aid climbing utilizes man-made aids, such as webbing ladders, to help you get further up the route. I am a seasoned all-around climber. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. 12+ for a few years. You get a placement that I would rather fall onto pretty much every time imo. When I'm on a redpoint attempt of a trad* route near my It's an aid climb, which wasn't climbed free for another 27 years after the FA At least as far as British climbing ethics go, big-wall climbing is a subsect of alpinism which has it's own much looser rules. Start with trad and all the knowledge that comes with it. I have a gear wall for the off season when I’m not climbing, otherwise my gear lives in the backpack. The commitment level and objective dangers are higher with multi pitch trad (and I include aid climbing here). Since then I have upgraded my rack to doubles on cams with Totem 0. 20+ pitches of soft sport. Old bail cord, sport vs trad days will change what’s on the wall. I would go out and basically set up a top-rope solo and just aid local trad climbs. 4 through 1) and BD C4 2-4. I was leading sport at around 5. Sure! I think there is the trad specific part of projecting and the non-trad specific part of projecting. Not often a problem for trad climbing, but pretty damn annoying when you want to clip a chain while rapping or whatever. Posted by u/baroldgene - 10 votes and 15 comments A trad climb of the same grade is a more serious undertaking because it is project level to place gear and climb hard at 13a or even a bit lower. With difficult aid climbing you are deliberately putting yourself in danger, you know you're putting yourself in danger, and you have to stand there and watch that flake you're hooking onto flex with nothing but body weight placements for the last 20 feet. Similarly, bounce testing is used in aid climbing because -- for example -- all you know is that the piece you got off of can hold a bounce test, and you really really don't want to find out if it fails during a fall. 9 every weekend and never fall) and taking a course like you are are all good ways to learn. Extendable slings are great in this setting. 5. Another distinction brought about by the modern age of climbing is the one between aid climbing and free climbing. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts SO a friend of mine years ago - a big dude, 6'3" and 220 solid muscle, was doing some aid practice to get more confident on trad pro. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. We use some at work and the hole/bolt seems to wear down with repeated use. Just because you can lead 10c sport doesn't mean you're going to start learning trad at ~10a. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. In Aid you sometimes make “body weight placements” these might hold a fall, but they’ll definitely hold just my weight long enough to get to the next piton! This placement is only dangerous because on this route there are often four and five placements in a row like this. Passive pro is simple enough and it's great to learn because you can IMMEDIATELY see that the piece will stay. There are certainly more "pure" forms of free climbing style, but that doesn't necessarily negate a free climb ascent. My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. Effectively there was a piece of a bigger flake that broke and let out the cam, if I would have tapped the rock I could have heard that it was hollow (the rest of the flake still remains there as proof of its "hollowness"), even upon simple visual evaluation Have fun and be safe my dude. They're awesome in the Gunks + Aid climbing on blown out sandstone. 75. I regard totems as great aid pieces, not as great free climbing/trad pieces. Old crusty trad dads use them. Free climbing just means using only the rock and your own physical prowess as a means of progression upwards, opposed to, for example, pulling on fixed gear in aid climbing etc. Moonlight should be sacrificed, given to the free climbers. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. There is so much stuff in that book that is irrelevant, and the sections that are relevant to trad climbing are not as in depth as more dedicated sources. As for the aid climbing, it doesn't ever get harder than bolt ladders and french-free for the most part. Mainly, the full strength rating when only two lobes are touching the surface (pinscar type of feature). My $0. In aid climbing, you place gear (like trad climbing) and then you use cloth ladders, called aiders or etriers, to put your body weight on the gear and move upwards until you can place another piece of gear. The home of Climbing on reddit. I personally think totems are worth every penny and they make me feel like I’m not gonna die. Whether one uses the climbing rope itself or a dedicated length of cord is a personal choice and also depends on the circumstances. For scary trad descents and scrambly approaches I love my Adidas approach shoes. There are routes you can aid, but it's really nothing like aiding granite out west not just in the rock type, protection, and angle, but also, a lotttt of climbing a wall is learning how to be efficient not just in placements/climbing, but in everything I did top rope aiding early on in my trad leading and didn't find it much more educational than bounce testing on ground placement. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts There are also many types of climbing each is more difficult /fun. I dig mixed trad and slab (a lot!), and even short scary runouts but falling on a cam from 15ft is a little different than a hook. what will rip out. May 29, 2020 · But with the extra dimension, trad climbing can be as much about pushing mental limits as physical. And yes we are scared of falling. my thoughts on Ceuse or catalonia or siurana (sp) is from a marketing standpoint. Start doing weekly 1000+ft trad-endurance days since the route is more a challenge of sustained fitness than pulling hard moves. 11b/c when I started climbing trad and my first trad lead was 5. What sizes would you recommend? I’m getting into aid climbing, I live in SLC but plan on going to Yosemite soon. 2). Natural protection can be easily found. Rather than try to free it at 5. Flailed around for a few minutes then did a slow motion fall and the rope wasn't tight so I didn't weight it until I was upside down, with a significant amount of weight on We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Trad climbing (traditional) involves placing gear into cracks and other features on the wall to build your support system as you go up. For instance, lets say I want to climb a long 5. They're both forms of outdoor climbing, typically. This person is asking for opinions, you don’t have to disagree with me to give your own opinion on your own comment ya know. Hey folks, starting to double up my C4s with Totems. reReddit: Top posts of December 2020. ) *Rock climbing level 2 (this depends on the student. Check out some of the videos on my channel linked in my bio. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. Careful, oz carabiners have the little wire hood which prevents them from going through some chain links. Knowing how to aid it a great tool to have too, because if it starts raining, you need to go through a hard section, or you need to self rescue it's great to know how to aid. 5 in approach shoes). GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Honestly you’d probably see more people hauling than anything else. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. You'd definitely get fit, build a ton of skills, and overhaul your life, making it all about the outdoors. Frequently used gear usually stays in the pack, infrequently used gear usually stays on the gear wall. How do you pick your aid ladder? Staggered or conventional steps? How many steps? I’m 5’6, so I’m wondering if I can get away with 4 steps. Perhaps there’s a bit of a valley of use, where younger intermediate climbers use them the least, and new leaders and really old trad climbers have them racked up the most. Aid climbing means you're using some sort of gear of your own to help you get up the rock. 13/14 it makes more sense to just climb the bolt ladder or tiny crack on aid, and then get back to the climbing. 14 trad route, which is leading, just not free climbing. There is a grade discrepancy of 1-3 letter grades for me, but I am 100% able to aid up a 5. Our experience is that one can better equalize using clove hitches than tying a central knot and so the resulting anchor tends to end up looking like a traditional anchor built using the rope. Agreed. Fear is rational, and it helps to keep you safe if you can manage it. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l You’d probably see an equal mix of people free climbing and aid climbing at any quick glance of el cap. However most routes include a decent amount of free climbing to get between sections of aid. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Oh one more thing for context: the grades vary a lot by style. Most of these seem fairly straightforward, but in practice can be incredibly difficult. Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. 5 and . ) but want to know what skills I should have solid before I dive into the mountains. Posted by u/treesburndown - 9 votes and 12 comments Earlier this year I moved to Oakland CA for a job and to be closer to family, and I really want to start getting out to the Sierras (especially… 2- Very little wall climbing can really be learned in the gunks in the way you're thinking. We came into it with a strong sport climbing background, understanding of pro, and general dos/don'ts. aid climbing is pretty clear. So "free" means unaided climbing as opposed to aid, but still allowing protection -- great. Nominal sport, trad and bouldering are all forms of free climbing. Which is great because you practice a lot of placements and see what will really hold vs. Only one guide had Metolius and he mentioned he primarily preferred the smaller sizes for aid climbing, but for free climbing and larger sizes prefers C4’s. Don’t remember my first trad lead (that was 25 years ago!), but I do remember the lead-up to it. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Ideally I'd have three of everything, but what range do the Basics become more better (for lack… Depends what the root cause of the fear is. Needs 4 good size gear loops for trad rack. There are some (kinda) serious discussions about aid in free climbing out there: Posted by u/Sc1m17ar - 43 votes and 54 comments Bounce testing (in safe situations), aid climbing, climbing with more experienced climbers (by which i mean people who fall on gear, not people who climb 5. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. They do shine, doing what they’re meant to do. Class 5: Technical free climbing involving rope, belaying, and other protection hardware for safety. I think John Long's anchors book is a much better resource for pure trad rock climbing knowledge. I want to do alpine climbing (e. As others have said below, El Cap/Yosemite has bolts at specific points for anchors, but is all trad and aid climbing with the addition of hauling. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. I have totems down to . 5. Hiking boots are fantastic for hiking. As a soft shoe, there's a noticeable loss of tension over time, which has a definite impact on very specific moves (often standing on a tiny/sharp chip and making a big extended deadpoint while keeping toe pressure on). 1. Was top roping a crack that was fist size and then got my ankle stuck. i think they are gorgeous. Also, much of the info about equipment is dated. Went climbing with my buddy who has climbed El cap several times, he was teaching me crack climbing. 4-4, with . A big if, but that is part of trad climbing: managing fear in a rational way that enables you to stay safe while still pushing limits. If you feel good about the cams that you've placed in the upper crack, then they will work fine as upward pull pieces. A lot is situational depending on how long you're going to be on the wall, what the makeup for climbing is (aid vs. 5 which is half a size more than what I size my other LS shoes for sport climbing (for reference I am a 39 or 39. Nothing wrong with some training weight as well! Happy climbing! My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. If you're climbing routes with pretty technical small placements or aid climbing a lot, the black totem could truly be a great piece to add on. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. Touchstone was my first aid wall. (Granted for the most part it was just a bolt ladder) Aid climbing is something you can pretty easily practice by yourself. Sincerely hope you give it a go! Climbing is amazing, and trad climbing is the real real deal. We really just used it as a way to jumpstart our trad climbing careers because we didn't know too many other climbers to go the traditional "mentor-follower" style. Should I be learning self rescue, obscure rappel techniques, or high altitude specific skills? Climbers use the term 'climbing' as a catch all, but non-climbers are more likely to be familiar with "rock climbing" (which usually means top roping), and boulders will use rock climbing to mean climbing with a rope to differentiate it from bouldering, although to a newbie it seems like bouldering is also be a form of rock climbing. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts Start with going and training indoors, rent gear for the first couple of times then get a harness that suits your climbing interest, ie: Arc'teryx ar395a for ice climbing and pretty much everything else (apart from maybe trad as it might not have enough space on its gear loops, it is the one I use, good option). Although this may be a matter of semantics, I don't think fear is something you strive to eliminate. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. " There may or may not be fixed anchors. 02 Climbing is expensive. 12, but I can't imagine being a free climber on moonligh Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 11 comments My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. The ethos of this style emphasized risk, adventure, and complex problem solving. I just went with a mate who'd done a bit of trad and we went from there. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts A rope is often used. Aid climbing makes you plug in a lot of gear and fuck with it. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts I do have a black totem and when i need it it's absolutely money, but i currently just don't lead hard enough lines that i'm really depending on the black totem all the time. grand Teton, high sierras, etc. Although this may be a consequence of me climbing in the Eastern US. For the trad specific part, it's not quite pinkpointing (leading with pre-placed gear) but more like headpointing (leading while placing gear after figuring out all the gear beta in advance by rehearsing a bunch either on TR or lead). The visual test is the only thing you can do that's worth your time, pull testing is a complete waste of time and that's the reason you only see completely new trad Nov 8, 2023 · Wrapping Things Up: Aid Climbing vs. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. *Rock climbing level 1 or "intruduction/beginner" course (abseiling, building and using top rope outdoors with natural protection meaning anchors on trad) *sport climbing (leading on bolts, using and cleaning bolt anchors, abseiling, you know. I've found overall kataki's to be the best all around shoes ice used for crack, having an exceptionally low profile toe, while at the same time being very comfortable (the have a similar neoprene so 10 votes, 28 comments. Tricams are particularly good for certain crags though. We'd talked him into leading ice the previous winter and scared the hell out of him, so they took a step back to practice aid - set up a TR and trailed a line, testing each placement and really working it over. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. There are certainly very athletic trad climbers and routes but trad tends to be adventurous with loose rock, pants, dirt, and danger, so it’s just a different May 31, 2022 · The first day included climbing aid on top rope. Posted by u/comsciftw - 560 votes and 45 comments Oh I wasn’t shitting on you. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. I mostly climb trad well within my limit and have only taken a handful of falls on gear. Lets take the free Nose climbs as an example: Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. If you want to get feedback on your cam placements learn aid climbing-- you weight and bounce test each piece (well, when starting out anyway) which is phenomenal training for trad. The general rule for big walls being "local/FA ethics apply" or climb clean if it's a new/poorly documented route. it's dangerous. Cheers Totems do have some proprietary functions that certain people deem a necessity aid climbing on big walls. Practice building big wall anchors, practice hauling, practice aid climbing, and practice jugging the rope. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts Hi folks, I'm starting to get into trad climbing, and I've been reading various different accounts of how people have been gotten injured on the wall and their partners have been able to retreat with them safely, which got me thinking about the rope skills you'd need to know to get out of a hairy situation. Scan this QR code to download the app now. Prodigal Son would be another good one. Datapoint from a lighter climber: My current shoes are different when brand new, and it's noticeable up to about the first resole. Perhaps if instead of labelling the sun circles as 'sport climbing' and 'trad climbing' they were labelled 'elements of sport climbing' & 'elements of trad climbing' or something similar it would be more technically correct in that those two forms of free climbing share commknalities. Mar 9, 2022 · The two main styles, sport climbing vs. So I think they serve a strong purpose but it is just niche, where as Cams vs Hexes both will fill in similar placements and AFAIK there isn't a place that takes hexes better than it takes cams. just a thought. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. The other side of climbing is aid climbing. Or check it out in the app stores In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. If the fear is more of a lack of comfort with other factors identifying the problem and solving it can be a lot harder. That's what it would take IMO to maybe get to a classic multipitch 5. r/tradclimbing: Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. It's extremely calm and meditative. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. 1-. 10 on gear. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Traditional climbing, or “trad” climbing, refers generally to the predominant style of rock climbing practiced in the United States throughout the 1960’s and 70’s, and, of course, still practiced today by many climbers. 12d gear route that is at my free climbing limit. Crypto The concept of free climbing vs. I’d like to start my aid climbing setup, to get more comfortable with trad placements and start on the path to big walls. It's not even consistent within the climbing lexicon itself. Just the idea of having a concrete structure that you can aid with a roof seems wildly lucky. You give up head width, some stability, and taking up more space around the placement which is a bummer if not aid climbing. Trad climbing is nuanced and there’s a lot to learn with the highest price to pay for mistakes. Aid climbing might seem like cheating to some people, but truly difficult aid routes can be I’ve been climbing for 2 years and have just started to get into trad climbing and multi pitch. Aid through the crux by pulling on gear Some routes have bloted anchors Bail on gear in the moat efficient way possible (maybe sling a tree). You don't want to sport climb with alpine draws. Rock fall, difficulty retreating in bad weather, getting benighted, route finding, dangerous run outs, scary descents, and marginal anchors are all issues I've faced trad climbing. Each brand has it's pros and cons, but many advantages are specialization specific (eg, you can fifi or clip etriers to the loop on BD's for aid climbing). I was thinking about prioritizing the blue and yellow and possibly Black Totems, but I’m wondering if I should get a whole rack considering I already have doubles in . Free climbing means pulling on the natural features of the rock to ascend. In trad climbing it's a combination of physical climbing and problem solving. Trad means you're using non-permanent gear (i. I can't climb 5. I use a Petzl sitta for alpine and a padded thing for indoors. A lot of harder trad in my experience, I needed some rudimentary aid climbing techniques anyway in order to access the route to parse out the free climbing beta safely. Thankfully, most/if not all of the anchors are bolted which saves a lot of time at belays. Careful with the removable threaded bolts. e. It's more time consuming than trad leading. Excellent for edging, smedging and with a low toe box profile. I have heard that I would love the Up Mocc's and then also that the TC Pro is the end all be all of trad shoes. 7 trad lead. Hi anyone have a recommendation for a climbing harness for mountain trad use? Needs to be fairly packable and light for carrying (about 300-350g) but also reasonably comfortable for multi pitch use and hanging stances etc. I've been looking to start aid climbing, and a friend recommended getting BD talons, BD cliffhangers, cam hooks, aiders, and fifi hooks. My first true aid lead was pitch 1 and my second aid lead was the crux pitch. Easy TR access, easy gear, easy climbing. trad, are defined by one critical difference: the system of protection that a lead climber uses to reduce the distance and severity of falls. Falls may well be fatal. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. qbdw kowjto baezo gvop ojhq kryapy pahrqh teekdo ykex zsek pqgo yhsmd aezsc uhuu unq